Shirtdresses, here I come!

September 08, 2018

Just finished my first Isca Dress, view A, and have just cut out another! This pattern is well considered and the designer, London based Marilla Walker, has made it easy to do bust adjustments by adding the markings direly onto the pattern if you need them.

I love the fine detailing on the finishing. At first I balked at doing the full felled seams, but after the first ones had to admit that the finish was so fine they were worth it.

This is the first item I’ve sewn with a full button placket and I am pretty excited to have unlocked a major new sewing level! 
I’ve used light shirting from @fabworksmillshop. It IS truly fabulous! A bit lighter than Tana lawn but just as silky. 

I was quite lazy as this was a wearable toile, and didn’t even bother trying to match the stripes – just laid the two bodice pieces butt up against each other when cutting out, which seemed to work. ☺

Adjustments /changes:

  1. FBA – as standard, the dress is drafted for a b-cup so I had to add a bit of width in the chest.
  2. SBA – whilst I normally wear quite loose dresses I decided I wanted this to fit more like a Toast dress I have and love, so I added back darts to bring in the back waist.
  3. I found the collar to collar stand placement a bit tight. This might have been due to mis-transferring markings, but had finagle the collar slightly back when done and am cutting a good 0.5cm from the collar from the next version so it has room to fold over neatly.
  4. I added the cuffs from the extensive free shirt modification Marilla provides on her shop (again – why free?). Think I might try to figure out how to do full length, button down sleeves in future.

LOVE this pattern and can’t wait to try the other version.

I do think Marilla should split these two patterns as they are completely different dresses, even though they start with the same shape, and she should be getting paid for the hard work she put into both of them! They are so worth it and I feel guilty having got these for the price of one pattern.





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